The Gift of Colour

Studio Claudy Jongstra and Extended Ground join forces with the Municipality of Amsterdam and ROC TOP to introduce The Gift of Colour. Founded on the pillars of ecology, inclusivity, hope and a local maker-industry, The Gift of Colour begins in Amsterdam's Nelson Mandela Park as a model designed to expand for application in cities across the globe.

Gardens cultivated in underserved urban areas and cared for by the local community, will produce natural dye plants. The botanical colours from these plants will be the foundation of an innovative fashion project driven by the creativity and voices of young people from the same community.

The Gift of Colour is founded on the pillars of ecology, inclusivity, hope and a local maker-industry. Each city will partner with a fashion brand that is interested in recalibrating the future of their company to a different kind of pace and forging a sustainable working future for their brand. Collaborating brands will have the opportunity to pioneer an innovative approach to urban thriving in which fashion plays a pivotal role in building sustainable and resilient communities for future generations.

Film by Bas Berkhout / Birchwood Films

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Film by Bas Berkhout / Birchwood Films
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Claudy Jongstra at Museum De Lakenhal

Claudy Jongstra's artistic and activist practice is the driving force behind her solo exhibition at Museum De Lakenhal. "Who still knows anything about plant-based colour?" ("Wie weet nog iets van een plantaardige kleur?") documents the translation of Jongstra's atelier and sustainable working farm & field lab into a multi-sensory exhibition experience.

 

Many thanks to filmmaker Marit Geluk and Museum De Lakenhal for the realization of this film.

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Film by Marit Geluk
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Claudy Jongstra at Museum De Lakenhal

“For a long time I have been called a ‘wool artist’ - a nice name, sweet, non-threatening. But it is also bullshit. I am an activist. I want to encourage people to take action.” - Claudy Jongstra

At Museum De Lakenhal, Claudy Jongstra restores the connection between humankind and nature, between knowledge and material, with a solo exhibition that appeals to all the senses. 

Jongstra’s largest ever woven artwork - NINE - extends across the floor of the main gallery like an earthly landscape, as her diptych - Cosmic Cry  - forms the horizon. The dark, mysterious tones in this powerful installation reference the characteristic deep black and blue colours of the world-famous 'Leiden Laken' cloth. And Woven Skin (2018), a nomadic work that radiates urgent action against the exhaustion of our earth, returns to The Netherlands to be seen for the first time after a world tour.

 

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Museum De Lakenhal, Leiden, NL (30 October 2020 - 28 February 2021)
Photography ©Ronald Tilleman
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FOUR

Situated just footsteps from the shore of the Maas, the Limburgs Museum pays homage to this mighty body of water, of life. At the request of curator Servé Hermans (artistic director of Toneelgroep Maastricht), visual artist Claudy Jongstra partakes in this homage with a piece entitled FOUR. Four moods of the river are reflected with four idioms in wool - mighty, saturated, luminous and tidal. Each idiom, unearthed from the margins of the Maas, is expressed in four distinct compositional styles and natural colour palettes. Derived from indigenous dye plant species cultivated and foraged in Limburg, each colour palette embodies particular “gebiedseigen” qualities of the regional landscape. Wool, the body of the work, is local kempisch sheep's wool sourced in collaboration with a holistic land conservation organisation - rendering FOUR an artwork that describes the diversity of the Maas in both character and ecology.

In this installation, FOUR encircles a sculptural installation piece by artist Berlinde de Bruyckere. Unknown until recently, a mass grave of war horses was discovered on the brinks of the Maas. De Bruyckere symbolically addresses this event through a carnal, decayed depiction of the animal, whilst the circling motion of FOUR sparks a dialogue between the two artworks.

The canvases of FOUR face the perished being like an altarpiece looking over a saint’s relic, enfolding it in a protective embrace, a womb’s nurture. Four moments, four natures, four moods of the Maas - muse, monster, murderer and mother.

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"Machtige Maas" curated by Servé Hermans (Toneelgroep Maastricht) for the Limburgs Museum, Venlo, The Netherlands (Oct. 2020 - Apr. 2021)
Size: 2,40 x 5,00 each
Material: Kempisch Heath, Drenthe Heath and Merino sheep wool, mohair, silk, cotton
Pigments: chamomile, nettle, st. john’s wort, yarrow, indigo, woad, walnut, madder, elderberry, calendula
Photography ©Jeroen Musch
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Convene NYC

Artwork, titled Halve Maen, commissioned by Convene NYC references the trade winds that carried ships from Amsterdam into New York Harbor. In harmony with the wooden ship construction materials incorporated into the interior architecture, Jongstra’s artwork - composed of natural fibers and organic pigments of diverse origins - introduces warmth and texture into the space, enhancing its sense of welcome and exchange. Jongstra was inspired by the local and maritime history of Lower Manhattan as an iconic center of international exchange. Convene, an event venue and flexible meeting space in Brookfield Place (formerly the World Financial Center), is situated in architect César Pelli’s Battery Park City across the street from One World Trade Center and the 9/11 Memorial.

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Convene New York City, commissioned by Convene, USA, 2019
Material: natural color of Drenth Heath wool
Pigments: walnut, indigo, woad, onion skin
Size (m): 3,20 x 5,50m
Photo credit: Frankie Alduino
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The Wallace Foundation 2-2

Watercolor for Two Rivers, created for The Wallace Foundation, commissioned by Deborah Berke Partners. In this is one-of-a-kind artwork,  Jongstra draws inspiration from the Hudson and East Rivers that frame the north-facing view of Manhattan from The Wallace Foundation’s Social Hub. The delicate, undulating composition of natural fibers evokes an underwater landscape hidden in the depths of these salt water estuaries. The aquatic color palette, masterfully hand-dyed with seaweed foraged from the islands off the northern coast of The Netherlands, honors and expands upon the versatile role of vegetation in oceanic systems.

 

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The Wallace Foundation New York City, commissioned by Deborah Berke Partners, 2019
Material: Drenthe Heath, Wensleydale and merino wool, mohair and silk
Pigments: foraged seaweeds including bladderwrack, sea lettuce, and oarweed
Size: 3,30 x 1,10m
Photo credit: Frankie Alduino
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The Wallace Foundation 1-2

Diversity of Thought comprises seven textile panels: six in the elevator lobby, each rendered in colors that evoke a different body in the solar system and one behind the reception desk that represents the sun. The artworks are specially created for The Wallace Foundation and commissioned by Deborah Berke Partners. Inspired by the collaborative history of art and science,  Jongstra’s stippled compositions and embroidered markings recall the astronomical drawings of Galileo. In the early age of the telescope, astronomical observation was still largely inaccessible. Trained as a visual artist, Galileo used the power of the image to communicate his observations of the cosmos to the public. In this way his drawings became ‘satellite’ images for astronomical observation. 

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The Wallace Foundation New York City, commissioned by Deborah Berke Partners, 2019
Material: Drenthe Heath, Wensleydale and merino wool, mohair and silk
Pigments: calendula, chamomile, onion skin, wild tansy, indigo, elderberry, madder, cochineal, walnut, nettle, and mint
Size: a series of seven artworks - 2,90 x 1,50m and six panels 1,50 x 1,50m
Photo credit: Frankie Alduino
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Tribute to the Planets

Tribute to the Planets, a densely felted, low sheen woolen mural, celebrates the richness and quality of natural materials that Earth has to offer. An inspiring, multi-sensory element for the new Triodos Bank Headquarters by RAU Architects, Jongstra’s artwork contributes to the creation of a healthy working environment. The intensity of the colours in this work is the result of extensive distillation processes with the purest plant material, in combination with newly-acquired knowledge about historical natural dye processes from Jongstra’s ongoing research in collaboration with the ERC Artechne project.

Jongstra’s mural radiates warmth and vitality in golden, pink and red hues - extracted from roots and plants like madder and onion skin - are interlaced with characteristic deep blues derived from indigo leaves.

Values that are central to Triodos Bank - providing a healthy and inspirational environment for mankind whilst carefully sustaining our planet - are also pivotal to Claudy Jongstra’s art practice. Tribute to the Planets expresses shared concerns about eco-awareness, collaborative stewardship of people and planet, and preservation of ancient knowledge and crafts.

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Triodos Bank Reehorst, NL, commissioned by Triodos Bank 2020
Material: wool Merino, Drenth Heath wool
Pigments: indigo, madder, welt, walnut, cochenille
Size (m) total area: 4.00 height x 4.60 width
Photo credit: Jeroen Musch
Text: Studio Claudy Jongstra in collaboration with Suzanna de Sitter
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Museum Het Rembrandthuis

Diptych for the Rembrandt House Museum is on view in Rembrandt's former 'de Sael' through 16 February 2020.
In celebration of 'Rembrandt and the Golden Age 2019', marking 350 years since the artist's death, Jongstra draws inspiration from the natural sources of Rembrandt's artistic materials.
A richly varied palette of reds is the result of intensive scientific research into the historical madder root pigment, one of Rembrandt's most recognizable pigments, on a range of plant fibers, including nettle, hemp and flax. Flax is also the botanical source of linen from which Rembrandt's canvases were woven as well as of linseed oil used to mix his famous oil paints.
In conversation with the celebrated 'Marriage Portrait of Marten Soolmans and Oopjen Coppit' (c. 1632), Jongstra's diptych revives coveted tones of Burgundian Black as worn by the painting's prominent subjects. Each black shade was derived through collaborative historical reconstruction research using dye recipes from the Burgundian-Habsburg Netherlands (c. 1430s - 1580s)

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Museum Het Rembrandthuis, exhibtion until February 16th 2020, Amsterdam, The Netherlands 2019
Curator: Jorn Konijn
Material: natural color of Drenth Heath wool
Pigments: allium, onion, hennep, hair, madder ad nettle
Size (m): each piece 1,68 x 1,46m
Photo credit: Studio Claudy Jongstra
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Viktor&Rolf Haute Couture Spiritual Glamour AW19 in collaboration with Claudy Jongstra

"Spiritual Glamour" is the result of an inspiring collaboration with Viktor&Rolf for their Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2019/2020 collection. Fascinated by Claudy Jongstra’s scientific research and with great respect for her eco-aware practice and holistic mission for a better planet, Viktor&Rolf created a series of sculptural coats in an array of voluminous shapes from Jongstra’s trademark woollen textiles. The collection focuses on the color black, specifically the complex and mystifying tones of Burgundian Black perfected by master dyers in the 15th to 17th centuries. In collaboration with the Artechne Project (European Research Council) led by Prof. Sven Dupré, artist-alchemist Claudy Jongstra has revived and reimagined the long-lost creation processes for a multitude of lustrous and lasting shades of black. Jongstra’s extensive knowledge and experimentation with natural color-making allowed for the creation of true blacks based solely on natural ingredients and historical recipes.

The Viktor&Rolf Haute Couture Collection 2019 in collaboration with Claudy Jongstra embodies an ode to mother-nature and her powers to provoke an ecological renaissance. The products of her eco-aware practice are used in a series of sculptural coats in an array of voluminous shapes. The black felt coats give way to a series of colourful dresses in fabrics of Viktor&Rolf’s own making: vintage garments and fabrics were disassembled to threads and re-constituted as needle punch, almost like abstract paintings. Elaborate patchwork, appliqué, and crochet cultivate a handmade, 'do-it-yourself', almost naive aesthetic. With creatively embroidered symbols of the sun, moon and the stars.

 

 

Photography Courtesy of Viktor & Rolf

 

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Photography Courtesy of Viktor & Rolf
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