Viktor & Rolf | Spiritual Glamour

'Spiritual Glamour' is the result of an inspiring collaboration between Claudy Jongstra and Viktor&Rolf for their Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2019 Collection. With the original meaning of the word ‘Glamour’ referring to that of a magic spell, an illusion said to be cast by witches. In this case, the spell is cast to transform a general feeling of doom about the environment into positive action. Joining forces with Dutch artist-alchemist Claudy Jongstra, this collection embodies an ode to mother-nature and her powers to provoke an ecological renaissance.

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The collection focuses on the colour black, not just any black, but a multitude of tones centering on the darkest colour of the spectrum. Dyed by Claudy Jongstra in a gently simmering cauldron with plant pigments, her extensive knowledge and experimentation in collaboration with the European Research Council Artechne Project, allowed for the re-discovery of the long-lost creation process the famous 'Burgundian Black': the most precious of true blacks based solely on natural ingredients and ancient recipes. The products of her eco-aware practice are used in a series of sculptural coats in an array of voluminous shapes.

The mood is pagan. Black felt coats give way to a series of colourful dresses in fabrics of Viktor&Rolf’s own making: vintage garments and fabrics were disassembled to threads and re-constituted as needle punch, almost like abstract paintings. Elaborate patchwork, appliqué, and crochet cultivate a handmade, 'do-it-yourself', almost naive aesthetic.

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Collection: Spiritual Glamour Haute Couture A/W 2019

Designer: Viktor&Rolf in collaboration with Claudy Jongstra

Photography: Courtesy of Viktor&Rolf